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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary honour.